Same Old Zodiac, Chic New Takes

The symbols of the Western zodiac have proved irresistible to jewelers for decades, but never more so than since the pandemic, when personalized designs struck a major chord with consumers.

Now, in the post–post-pandemic, a number of jewelers have revisited the zodiac theme, with an eye to offering a new take on its dozen beloved symbols. Take Brent Neale Winston, the designer of NYC’s Brent Neale. A jeweler for 18 years, including nearly a decade as the designer of her eponymous line, Winston introduced her first zodiac collection in early March, fulfilling a long-held dream to create her own version of the zodiac’s 12 signs.

Scorpio charm bracelet in 18k gold and platinum with diamonds, $25,800; Brent Neale

Leo earrings in 18k gold with diamonds, $4,950; Brent Neale

“There is nothing I like more than challenging myself and to tackle a beloved theme like zodiacs and make it my own was just that,” Winston tells JCK. “Typically, zodiac jewelry is based on pendants and the sign is placed on a medallion. So I really didn’t want to do that. Rings are a huge category for our company and I wanted them to be the hero pieces. I sketched each design and started on making them in a way that they contour to the finger. I’m so proud of how this collection has turned out!”

Cancer pendant in 18k gold with diamonds, $6,950; Sorellina

The back of Sorellina’s Cancer pendant features an engraved constellation set with diamonds.

Nicole and Kim Carosella, the sister duo behind Sorellina Jewelry in NYC, just introduced their new zodiac collection, which features double-sided pendants with zodiac imagery on the front and engraved constellations on the back, “offering a subtle yet captivating representation of the night sky, featuring diamonds in place of stars,” according to the press release.

An array of Sorellina zodiac pendants

Other designers, such as Future Fortune, also have embraced astrological signs in a line of 18k yellow gold rings that make clear our timeless obsession with the cosmos.

Sagittarius ring in 18k gold with diamonds, $6,200; Future Fortune

Top: Taurus ring in 18k gold and platinum with diamonds, $23,250; Brent Neale