Pauline Karpidas’ Lalanne Jewels Go to Auction

Sotheby’s this week is auctioning 21 Claude Lalanne jewelry pieces that were custom-made for British art collector and socialite Pauline Karpidas (pictured above with her late husband, Greek shipping magnate Constantinos Karpidas).

Karpidas’ unique Lalanne necklaces, brooches, cuffs, and earrings were created over two decades and showcase the artist’s distinctive electroplating process, which replicates the delicate natural forms of flowers, stems, and leaves in metal. They are crafted in Lalanne’s signature pink copper patina.

Claude Lalanne hydrangea necklace in gold patinated bronze and galvanized copper, circa 1980, estimate £4000–£6000 ($5,442–$8,163)

The jewelry is part of a larger sale, “Pauline Karpidas: The London Collection,” and will be offered in a live event in London on Sept. 18 and in an online auction that closes on Sept. 19. The Karpidas sale also features artwork, furniture, decorative items, and accessories, including picture frames, a handbag, and chairs by Lalanne.

Claude Lalanne orchid brooch in galvanized copper, circa 2000, estimate £2,500–£3,500 ($3,401–$4,762)

“The Lalannes have infused my existence with beauty and grace,” Karpidas said in a statement from Sotheby’s. Florent Jeanniard, Sotheby’s chairman and co–worldwide head of 20th century design, noted that the collection is “one of the most intimate and distinctive groups of Claude Lalanne jewelry to have come to market.”

Claude Lalanne serpent brooch in galvanized copper, circa 1994, estimate £5,000–£7,000 ($6,803–$9,524)

Karpidas met the married artists Claude and François-Xavier Lalanne in the early 1970s and quickly became one of their earliest collectors. Their friendship led to numerous notable commissions, not only for jewelry but also for large-scale sculptural pieces such as “Pauline’s Throne” and “Pauline’s Mouflon.” The works in Karpidas’ collection, many of which were personal commissions never intended for wider production, demonstrate a unique creative partnership between artist and collector.

Claude Lalanne butterfly earrings in galvanized copper, circa 1990, estimate £2,500-£3,500 ($3,401–$4,762)

Karpidas wore her Lalanne pieces with a quiet theatricality, often pairing them with bold jewels by other designers like Belperron and JAR. Her eclectic style and collection of 1940s jewelry once captivated Andy Warhol, sparking a close friendship and leading to Warhol painting her portrait in 1978. The upcoming auction celebrates a collector who has lived with, and worn, the art she loves.

(Top photo from the Karpidas family’s private archive; photos courtesy of Sotheby’s)