Can high jewellery still surprise us? Paris proves it can-II

4) JEWELS IN MOTION

Movement and structure play a central role this season, as houses explore high jewellery as sculpture bringing articulation, architectural volumes, and often transformability to their creations.

Repossi – 'Blast'
Repossi returns to its roots with 'Blast',  sculptural high jewellery centred on the motif of the infinite gold thread. The standout bib necklace is composed of meticulously graduated gold bars, mirror-polished to catch the light, and set with 15 pear-shaped diamonds totalling 6.77 carats alongside 720 pavé-set bars. Inspired by tribal adornments, modernist art, and the maison’s 1980s heritage, the design plays with proportions and rhythm to create a bold yet fluid piece that sits like a second skin. It’s a statement of fullness, femininity, and Repossi’s Place Vendôme edge.

Repossi’s Blast necklace uses over 700 pavé diamonds to create a kinetic effect that shifts with every movement. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Cartier – Traforato Necklace
Part of Cartier’s En Équilibre high jewellery collection, the Traforato necklace plays with light, geometry, and chromatic harmony. Its openwork mesh structure reveals a rhythmic arrangement of diamonds, emeralds and onyx — three colours that are a signature Cartier palette. The design centres on a trio of octagonal Colombian emeralds, creating a sense of both precision and movement. True to the collection’s ethos, Traforato explores balance through contrast: solid and void, line and volume, tradition and modern abstraction. A masterclass in Cartier’s understated complexity. Click here to watch an Instagram reel about the Cartier’s En Équilibre high jewellery collection

Cartier’s Traforato necklace frames a trio of octagonal Colombian emeralds within a lattice of openwork gold — a play of solids and voids. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Louis Vuitton – 'Savoir Set'
A dazzling tribute to sacred knowledge, Louis Vuitton’s 'Savoir' necklace and earrings are part of the Virtuosity High Jewellery collection’s 'World of Mastery' chapter. The necklace centres on a hypnotic 30.56-carat Australian black opal in a rare triangle cut, its shifting red and green hues echoed by an emerald drop of 28.01 carats and a string of hand-set emerald beads. Angular, architectural lines — referencing the maison’s trunk-making heritage — interweave with chevrons, Vs, and nail-style diamond settings. The earrings complete the set’s powerful geometry, each a reminder of Louis Vuitton’s storied savoir-faire, meticulously honed over 1,500 hours.

Crafted over 1,500 hours, Louis Vuitton’s Savoir set pairs a rare triangle-cut black opal with bold architectural lines. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Dries Criel – Chrome Tourmaline Ring
Part of Dries Criel’s debut high jewellery collection — unveiled during Paris Haute Couture Week — this bold yet refined ring captures the Belgian designer’s sculptural sensibility. A richly saturated chrome tourmaline is cradled in yellow gold, its deep green hue intensified by a graphic arrangement of white diamonds and green enamel. The geometric lines are a nod to architectural rigour while the domed silhouette conveys power and permanence. Criel’s first foray into high jewellery celebrates Nature not through mimicry but through material essence — revealing beauty in its elemental form, distilled and precise

A domed chrome tourmaline anchors Dries Criel’s debut design, framed by enamel and diamonds in a bold study of volume and symmetry. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Tasaki – 'Grâce Éternelle'
With 'Grâce Éternelle', Tasaki reworks the classical pearl ring with bold architectural poise. A luminous South Sea pearl hovers next to a vivid yellow diamond framed in white diamonds, creating a striking counterpoint of volume, textures and colour. The design speaks to the Japanese maison’s instinct for contrast — where softness meets geometry, and purity is heightened by light.

Tasaki’s Grâce Éternelle ring nods to yin-yang duality, pairing softness and structure in a minimalist architectural design. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Vhernier – 'Ardis' Collection
Making its high jewellery debut in Paris, Vhernier unveiled the 'Ardis' collection in a quietly powerful presentation at the Atelier Brancusi, just steps from the Centre Pompidou. The choice of location echoed the collection’s inspiration: modern sculpture. Artists such as Brâncuși, Hepworth and Max Bill inform the collection’s abstract yet organic forms, sculpted to follow the curves of the body. 'Ardis' is presented in various iterations that explore plays of light, shadow and volume through a mix of materials, including white gold, aluminium, and diamond pavés. The modular designs never repeat, creating a fluid, architectural rhythm that embodies Vhernier’s fusion of bold design and Italian craftsmanship.

Vhernier’s Ardis necklace in white gold, aluminium and diamonds showcases the brand’s sculptural roots and modular fluidity. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

4) THE EMOTION OF COLOUR

Colour this season was not just a final touch but the central vocabulary of emotion and narrative.

Bvlgari – 'Color Journey'
Bvlgari closes its 'Color Journey' saga with a final chapter dedicated to the tourmaline whose name means the 'stone of all colours.' Known for its vivid spectrum, the gem takes centre stage in a series of high jewellery creations born not from sketches but inspired by the stones themselves. A standout piece pairs polished green tourmalines with pink and orange tourmalines, framed by cabochon amethysts  in a rhythmic arrangement that pulses with chromatic energy. Sculptural settings, bold colour contrasts and instinctive design define this finale — an ode to Nature’s bounteous colour palette and the Roman house’s fearless embrace of colour

Bvlgari selected each tourmaline first, designing the Color Journey necklace around their natural hues and shapes. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Anna Hu – 'Butterfly' Brooch and 'Orchid Minuet' Ring
Anna Hu returned to Paris Couture Week with a lyrical display of 21 high jewellery creations that unite Eastern motifs with Western craftsmanship. Highlights include the sculptural butterfly brooch crafted in titanium and enamel, with hand-painted titanium wings edged in diamonds and anchored by a vivid blue-green tourmaline. Feather-light yet structurally complex, the design showcases Hu’s mastery of movement, material and symbolism — where Nature, culture and art converge in wearable form.
Another standout from the collection, is the 'Orchid Minuet' that ring captures the spirit of the Peking Opera heroine Mu Guiying in a vibrant bloom of colour and craftsmanship. Crafted in titanium and gold, the pastel-shaded petals are hand-painted using nano-electroplating pigments, while a 1.01-carat yellow-orange diamond burns bright at the centre.

Inspired by a Peking Opera heroine, this pastel-hued orchid blooms with hand-painted petals and a fiery yellow-orange diamond. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Damiani – 'Ode All’Italia'
Damiani drew inspiration from the landscapes and cultural heritage of its homeland for 'Ode All’Italia'. The centrepiece is a necklace set with a 30.25-carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald, framed by a vivid arrangement of yellow and orange sapphires, spessartites, tsavorites and diamonds in a floral motif. The collection is divided into three chapters — Lights of the Sea, Landscapes of the Soul and Dwellings of Time — each capturing a different facet of the Italian spirit. Click here to watch our Instagram Reel about Damiani. 

Floral curves meet geometric precision in Damiani’s “Ode to Italy” necklace, set with a 30.25ct Colombian emerald. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

5) GOLDSMITHING MEETS COUTURE

Two final entries remind us that high jewellery does not stop at the neck or hand. It can become an object, a gesture, or a bridge between disciplines.

Buccellati – Spherical Velvet Evening Bag
Buccellati brings its signature ornamental language to the world of accessories with this spherical evening bag, part of the house’s 2025 high jewellery capsule collection. Inspired by archival clutches from the 1920s, the piece reimagines the classic minaudière as a wearable jewel. Black stretch velvet provides a sculptural canvas for a garland motif in white gold and diamonds, encircling the orb like a lace diadem. A yellow gold bangle-style handle finishes the composition — refined, functional, and unmistakably Buccellati. More than an accessory, it is an objet d’art that revives the tradition of haute couture adornment with contemporary poise.  Click here to watch an Instagram reel about Buccellati. 

Buccellati revives the 1920s minaudière with this velvet orb, framed in lace-like gold and diamonds. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

Gucci and Pomellato – Monili Bracelet
Unveiled on the Gucci Cruise 2026 runway in Florence, the Monili bracelet is part of a new capsule high jewellery collection created in collaboration between Gucci and Pomellato. Named after the Italian word for jewels, the collection draws on Pomellato’s  goldsmithing and Gucci’s leatherworking heritage to craft pieces defined by textural contrast and sculptural fluidity. This sinuous design knots together curves of pavé-set white gold and smooth black leather in a refined interplay of textures. At once minimalist and expressive, it reflects the collection’s ethos: timeless form shaped by two distinct Italian identities. Click here to watch our Instagram reel about the Gucci x Pomellato.

The Monili bracelet from Gucci & Pomellato pairs sculptural gold with supple leather—two Italian crafts entwined in a single, tactile form. High Jewellery collection July 2025.

What emerged in Paris this season wasn’t a unified aesthetic, but a shared intention: to make jewellery speak. Whether drawing on Nature, impermanence or cultural memory, the most powerful pieces invited us to pause, reflect and feel. These weren’t just objects of beauty, but of meaning — proving that great jewellery doesn’t just shine, it resonates.