Opaque Jewelry Is So Of-the-Moment

If you haven’t noticed, opaque gems are having quite the renaissance.

They may have last rode a popularity wave in 2018 (not so long ago, yet ages ago), when our Amy Elliott named malachite and pink opal among the year’s hottest gems. More recently, we reported in late 2023 that moss agate apparently had become a favorite of Gen Z. And just this past fall, Pomellato reimagined a classic collection using such gemstones as tiger’s eye, turquoise, and black marble.

We love translucent and faceted gems for all their depth, sparkle, and style, but opaque stones—lapis lazuli, turquoise, jade, malachite, tiger’s eye, apatite, carnelian, jasper, labradorite, the list could go on—are intriguing. And they may not be well known to many jewelry lovers in the mood for something new (to them).

Some opaque stones have intriguing backstories. Malachite, according to GIA, is toxic if inhaled or ingested, but in polished form (for jewelry), it’s completely safe. With a green that rivals Oz, malachite was popularity in home goods a while back, probably for its groovy-looking bands and succulent hue.

Or take jade. Though it’s not particularly hard, registering between 6 and 7 on the Mohs scale, it is tough as nails and was often used to craft weapons in Neolithic times.

One could delight customers with all manner of fun facts like these, but a picture—or even better, the jewel itself—is worth a thousand words. The finds pictured below just might leave clients speechless.

Hand-carved evil eye pendant in 14k yellow gold with pink opal, tiger’s eye, and onyx, $1,420; Garland Collection

Drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with with 23.9 cts. t.w. ciarulite and 0.55 ct. t.w. yellow tourmaline, $2,250; Elva Jewelry

Elements bead bracelet in 18k yellow gold with lapis lazuli and diamonds, $3,440; Charmaleena

Solis ring in 18k yellow gold with lapis lazuli, $8,000; HOWL

Heart pendant in 18k yellow gold with malachite and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,500 (all proceeds benefit World Central Kitchen); Harwell Godfrey

Huggie earrings in 9k yellow gold with 35 cts. t.w. malachite and 0.38 ct. t.w. white topaz, €2,500 ($2,600); Yvonne Léon

Ring in sterling silver, 22k, and 24k gold with Kingman turquoise, $920; Lori Francescutti

Yin Yang necklace in 14k yellow gold with lapis, carnelian, and diamonds, price on request; Retrouvaí

Rock earrings in 18k rose gold with rhodochrosite and 0.95 ct. t.w. diamonds, $7,800; Guita M

Large freeform ring in 14k yellow gold with lapis, $1,800; Jacquie Aiche

Black hedgehog earrings in 18k blackened gold with chalcedony and black diamonds, $4,850; Karma El Khalil

Infinity ring in 18k yellow gold with labradorite, $3,805; Elizabeth Moore

Wayfinder earrings in 18k yellow gold with 6 cts. t.w. malachite, 0.6 ct. t.w. emerald, and 0.9 ct. t.w. moonstone, $3,520; Unhada

Bonbon ring in 14k yellow gold with turquoise, $480; Emily Kuvin

Mariner link earrings in 18k yellow gold with coral, lapis, and diamonds, $4,800; Jenna Blake

Top: Ring in 18k yellow gold with labradorite, $2,200; Amáli