AGTA Names 2024 Spectrum, Cutting Edge Award Winners

Last weekend in Dallas, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) unveiled the winners of its Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards for 2024 and presented hundreds of colored gemstone entrants in the annual competition—some artfully mounted in jewelry, some loose, all impressive on a variety of compelling levels.

The private event in the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star provided a glittering tapestry of gems and jewels for a select group of editors and VIPs to try on, photograph, and excitedly respond to with all manner of exaltations.

Trends among this year’s entries included an abundance of tourmaline—particularly paraíba and rubellite—and blue and green gems. There were also small concentrations of finished jewels with fantasy-cut or carved gems as focal points; double-finger and toi et moi rings; vibrant zircons; and glowy sage green and rainbow moonstones.

“I was most impressed with the intricacy of designs, and quality of the manufacturing was superior overall,” says John W. Ford Sr., CEO of AGTA. “There were a number of pieces that combined many colors of gemstones, and I think we’re going to see that quality of manufacturing continue to increase as color becomes even more popular and as the quality of the cutting also improves.”

Laguna Beach, Calif.–based designer Adam Neeley’s Cromatica earrings (pictured at top) in titanium and 14k white gold featuring 20.66 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 23.62 cts. t.w.  garnet, and 1.26 cts. t.w. diamonds won three Spectrum Awards: Editor’s Choice, 1st place in the Fashion Forward category, and 2nd place for Evening Wear.

1st Place, Engagement Rings

Platinum ring with 10.68 cts. t.w. tsavorite garnets and 0.66 cts. t.w. diamonds. by Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems

An Engagement Rings category made its debut this year and comprised 21 entries, with Omi Gems’ tsavorite beauty (pictured above) selected as the winner.

While last year’s Best of Show Spectrum winner, a cocktail ring set with a 15.22 ct. black opal (also created by Omi), was all about the magnificence of the stone, this year’s Best of Show was a celebration of design and craftsmanship—a brooch from Joseph Dardashti Ltd. with various precious gems adorning multiple butterflies. The piece also won 1st place in Evening Wear.

Best of Show 

Sophia D platinum and 18k yellow gold en tremblant butterfly brooch with 7.55 cts. t.w. diamonds, 3 cts. t.w. rubies, 0.65 ct. t.w. sapphires, and 0.55 ct. t.w. emeralds, by Joseph Dardashti and Sophia D. Karmel

Judges for the AGTA awards were Jean Francois Bibet a design and production specialist with a background in French high jewelry; Sherry Bender of the Goldsmith Ltd., Chicago; Susan Jacques, president and CEO of GIA; and jewelry designer Suzy Landa. The 1st-place winners in some categories are pictured below.

Cutting Edge, Best Carving

“

The Encounter” with onyx and an agate geode containing calcite and geothite, Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC 

Cutting Edge, North American Mined Gemstones

33 ct. sun sapphire from the Rock Creek Mine in Montana, faceted by John Dyer, John Dyer Gems

Business/Day Wear; Platinum Honors

Mariana ring in platinum with 18.44 ct. concave-cut aquamarine and 1.89 cts. t.w. diamonds, Maia Carlson, Weber Goldsmith Gallery, and Brad Weber, contributor

Classical

Platinum convertible ring/pendant with 2.04 ct. Brazilian paraíba tourmaline and 3.99 cts. t.w. diamonds, Beatrix Laura Jessner, B & W Jewels

Menswear; Best Use of Platinum and Color; Platinum Honors

Blue Me Away ring with 13.59 ct. bezel-set cabochon cat’s eye blue topaz, 2.16 cts. t.w. ombré sapphires, and  1.45 cts. t.w. diamonds, Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry

AGTA president Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems in Reno, Nev., observed: “There were a lot of carved stones and a number of Tom Munsteiner–cut gems, which was likely a nod of respect to his life’s work.”

Overall, were there any trends to start tracking now for the upcoming Tucson gem shows?

“Buyers should be on the lookout for bicolor and multicolor gems and loads of tourmaline in the full spectrum of colors,” Collins tells JCK.

Many of the winning pieces will be on display during the AGTA GemFair in Tucson, from Feb. 3 to Feb. 9, 2025. See the full list of Spectrum and Cutting Edge winners here.