The Allure of Onyx: A Case for Contrasts

“Are diamonds dated?” was the question posed last month by fashion site Who What Wear, in a headline that concluded, “Chic people are wearing this understated stone instead.”

The understated stone it was referring to is onyx, a gem that has unquestionably been experiencing a surge of late, along with other opaque stones like lapis and malachite.

To say that diamonds are dated couldn’t possibly be right, at least not in our line of work. Diamonds have weathered generations and trends and economic changes and pop culture influences—how we see them and how we demand them may change, but no, they’re never dated.

Still, there’s some food for thought in that query. What if, perhaps, consumers aren’t over diamonds but confused by them? People can’t decide between natural and lab-grown, vintage cuts or modern brilliants, natural browns or whites… What if—and this might represent just a small percentage of shoppers—they just say the heck with it and avoid diamonds altogether?

Onyx, with its glossy, luxurious-looking sheen, is a fantastic alternative. It’s the anti-diamond, the polar opposite. Minimalist but dramatic, with high contrast (especially given Pantone’s Color of the Year) that’s impactful and bold. And if one were to desire a vintage piece, some of the best onyx jewels you can find date to the art deco era.

Rather than a replacement for diamonds, onyx can also function as an addition to them. Just look how successfully the stones work together—the black onyx like an anchor, grounding in its depth, and a splash of diamonds adding that sparkle we all love.

Below, a selection of the latest onyx jewels—perfect for wearing in place of or alongside diamonds. Several of these pieces even have diamonds on them.

Bracelet in 14k yellow gold with onyx and rainbow sapphires, $6,030; Luis Morais

Custom key pendant in 18k yellow gold with onyx and 1.3 ct. emerald-cut diamond, price on request; Stacy Nolan

Rondelle necklace in 14k yellow gold with onyx beads and 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds, $3,000; Lionheart

Covent Garden flutter pendant in 18k white gold with onyx and diamonds, $5,445; Cullinan Crown

Midnight Majesty earrings in 18k yellow gold with onyx and diamonds, $6,080; Aletto Brothers

Droplet earrings in 18k yellow gold with onyx and diamonds, $4,250; Sunlit Fine Jewelry

Nova earrings in 14k yellow gold with black onyx and diamonds, $4,695; House of HarlowDavid Webb snowflake earrings in 18k yellow gold and platinum with onyx, $8,200; The Back Vault

Créoles Berlingot in 9k yellow gold with onyx and 0.38 ct. t.w. white topaz, $3,000; Yvonne Léon

Earrings in 14k yellow gold with onyx and diamonds, $2,835; Effy

La Marquise ring in 10k yellow gold with onyx, $1,200; Sandrine B.

Top: Element statement earrings with removable drops in 14k yellow gold with black onyx, emerald, prasiolite, and 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,700; Mason and Books