Romany Starrs’ Harlequin Collection Is One for the Ages

The harlequin pattern has theatrical origins, dating back to 16th-century Italy. In commedia dell’arte, the Harlequin character was a servant, recognized by his patchwork clothing in a raggedy diamond pattern.

Later, that pattern was cleaned up, polished, and arranged into the more symmetrical look we’re familiar with today. But the associated characteristics have stayed the same—mischief, fun, and a duality of colors that might signal change.

Scottish jeweler Romany Starrs explores the lasting fascination with this pattern in her new Harlequin collection, a playful yet polished line of earrings, rings, necklaces, and brooches.

Kinetic elements in a number of the pieces seem to allude to the always-in-motion Harlequin character, who was often acrobatic. At the heart of the collection is the pair of Fringe earrings (pictured at top), each grid of golden triangles swaying with 22 strands of oxidized silver, finished at some ends with diamond-dotted golden triangles. The earrings’ fluidity captures the Harlequin’s sense of whimsy, their designer aesthetic a nod to the character’s frequent appearance in artistic works, particularly by Picasso and other painters.

“Harlequin has always symbolized joy, performance, and transformation,” Romany said in a statement about the collection. “I wanted to take that sense of playfulness and turn it into something more grounded and powerful. Where geometry feels alive, and pattern takes on a sculptural form.”

The jeweler achieves that living geometry feeling through contrasting use of metals and, in some cases, a brightening of color from gemstones such as sapphire, ruby, and larger citrine and peridot.

While there’s an expert assortment of rings perfect for stacking, you’ll also find categories less often seen, like epaulettes and stickpins. Romany Starrs’ Harlequin collection honors both the pattern’s progress through centuries and its modern timelessness that keeps us wanting more.

Harlequin brooch in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with rubies and yellow sapphires, $2,134

Harlequin stud earrings in sterling silver with pink sapphires, $187

Dance ring (center) in 18k yellow gold with 0.42 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,350; Crown rings (top and bottom) in 18k white gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,013 each

Harlequin Halo stud earrings in sterling silver with sapphires, $315

Harlequin Kinetic Starburst ring in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with peridot and sapphires, $2,675

Harlequin cocktail earrings in 18k yellow and white gold with diamonds, $12,681

Harlequin half eternity ring in 18k yellow gold with rubies and yellow sapphires, $3,077

Starburst pin in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver with citrine, rubies, and yellow sapphires, $3,337

Top: Harlequin fringe earrings in 18k yellow and white gold with diamonds, $6,621; Romany Starrs