The Enduring Glamour of Platinum Brooches

Retailers take note: the brooch is back—and platinum is leading the charge. In light of growing interest in both vintage and contemporary brooch designs, which have stolen the red carpet spotlight in recent seasons, we turned to Bill Rau, third-generation owner of M.S. Rau in New Orleans, for insight into why history’s greatest jewelers chose the precious white metal for their most elegant and whimsical designs.

Van Cleef & Arpels turtle brooch in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 63.64 ct. cabochon emerald, diamonds, and rubies, $64,500; M.S. Rau

“Platinum became popular for brooches in the late 19th and early 20th centuries,” Rau tells JCK. “Though it had been used industrially since the mid-1800s, advances in metalworking and alloying made it practical for fine jewelry a bit later. The iridium-platinum blend combined strength and malleability, which allowed jewelers to create delicate filigree, scrolls, and lace-like motifs impossible with softer silver. It is also incredibly durable, making it ideal for diamond settings.”

Verdura brooch in platinum and 18k white gold with 100 cts. t.w. Ceylon sapphires and 6.65 cts. t.w. diamonds, $124,500; M.S. Rau

Cartier art deco brooch in platinum with rock crystal and pavé diamonds, $19,500; M.S. Rau

Platinum appealed to the period’s finest jewelers because of its silvery white sheen as well as its unique characteristics.

“Platinum remained relatively rare until the 1890s, when Cartier in Paris and Tiffany & Co. in New York began producing all-platinum brooches,” Rau says. “Cartier defined the Edwardian and early art deco periods in Europe with its intricate garland style, only achievable in platinum. In America, Tiffany & Co. set the standard for luxury, pairing platinum with diamonds to maximize brilliance. You can really see this legacy in 20th-century designs such as Jean Schlumberger’s celebrated Bird on a Rock brooch.”

Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock brooch in platinum and 18k gold with 63 ct. citrine and diamonds, $98,500; M.S. Rau

Rau also cited Raymond Yard’s whimsical Rabbit Waiter brooch, “a playful yet beautiful display of platinum’s capacity for intricate detail and brilliant gemstone setting.”

Raymond Yard Bunny Caddy brooch in platinum with sapphires, ruby, enamel, and diamonds, $78,500; M.S. Rau

Today, vintage platinum jewels boast a highly desirable soft, satiny patina and subtle wear marks that make them even more attractive, Rau says—proof that platinum’s allure, much like its luster, never fades.

Top: Art deco pendant brooch with 3 cts. t.w. diamonds and French-cut synthetic blue sapphires, $16,850; M.S. Rau